I live in a beautiful town called Piacenza and I love its local food and wine. It is often overlooked by people visiting the Emilia Romagna region. They either they think that were in Lombardia (we’re right on the border), or they bypass us for the more famous tourist places like Bologna, Parma, Modena or Reggio Emilia.
However, they are missing out on some fantastic food and wine. This region, like any other region, has its own dishes, wines and specialities which are not available anywhere else in the country, even 50 miles down the road.
Piacentini Specialities
This was first brought home to me when I told my English students that I was going to a salami festival just down the road in Cremona. All the replies I got was “that will not be proper salami, it’s not Piacentini salami.” As with everything food related the Italians are completely right! You’ve got to get the right salami for your Aperitivo!
Salame Piacentino
Pancetta Piacentina PDO
The bacon is rolled and tied, attaching natural pig casings at the ends of the roll or on the side seam. lean pork may be also be added. The product is dried and cured for a minimum period of four months. It melts in the mouth, and definitely rivals the more famous Parma ham up the road!
Coppa
Pisarei e Faso
You then cut the pasta into equally small pieces, and pressed gently with the thumb, thus shaping them into small dumplings. Make the sauce by browning butter, oil, a small chopped onion and lard. Add a good amount of beans, salt, pepper and roast them slowly.
Add the tomato sauce, diluted with warm water (or broth), then keep cooking slowly, adding some water or broth if needed. The sauce will have to look “velvety”.
You cook the pisarei in salted water until they float and then you mix them with the sauce and grated Grana Padano cheese.
The recipe dates back to the Middle Ages and was served in convents as a poor but nutritious meal to pilgrims on their way to Rome on the Via Francigena.
Anolini
Ortrugo
1) A bottle of Ortrugo must contain at least 90% Ortrugo grapes; the rest (if the winemaker chooses to use others) may be drawn from a variety of other Emilia-Romagna white-wine varieties
2) Ortrugo is usually sparkling. It can be frizzante, which is to say lightly sparkling…or it can be spumante, more sparkling. I’ve encountered some producers who have taken the latter more expensive Champagne production method, hiking up the price of the wine. For the moment I think I’m an Ortrugo Frizzante guy.
Gutturnio
It is frizzante: a dark bubbly dry red and is very drinkable!
They make Gutturnio from the Barbera grape (usually 70%, but officially 55% to 70%), and the Bonarda grape (usually 30%, but officially 30% to 45%).
You can pick up a one and a half litre bottle of either of these wines in the local supermarket for €4. In my opinion they taste as good, if not better than more expensive wines I’ve tasted in the past.
So, next time you’re in Italy, don’t bypass Piacenza. If you do you’re missing out on some delicious food and wine.
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